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PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 7:38 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 7:54 pm
Posts: 419
Just bought an X140 with the non-string-through-body bridge.

In other words, it looks like this:
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=4 ... =790199300

not this

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=3 ... =790199300

Anyway, the bridge buzzes when the low E and A are played. I've fussed with it a bit, tightened it down a bit in the body, adjusted string height. It's not the *string* buzzing on the frets, it's actually the bridge vibrating. If I hold the bridge steady with my hand, it disappears.

Any ideas? It doesn't look like I can crank this bridge down much further without stripping something out.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 6:24 am 
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Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 9:32 am
Posts: 1024
Location: NYC
I have heard of that happening and heard products like locktight recommended. You could also try a little plumbers teflon thread tape. I used that on a switch that kept working loose. I used to have to tighten it every other time I played. Three years and counting.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 7:38 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 11, 2008 4:11 pm
Posts: 657
Location: Tenn.
Word of warning, a little lock-tite goes a long way. The new formulas dont need a clean surface to bond to or primer to make them stick. NEVER use red lock-tite on anything you want to remove later with out a tourch. I had to remove some broken bolts the other day that were lock-tited in.

They make a low torq formula, purple I think. Even this is pretty strong if used in excess. I've used a lot of the stuff over the years and it works good. The formula strength is represented by a certain color-red,green,blue white,purple,ect..check the web site for what you need.

They also make a plumbing teflon in a stick form (like the glue sticks the kids use) that is easy to use.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 12:50 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 7:54 pm
Posts: 419
I think I've got a handle on it. The bridge was maladjusted and in some cases only one of the two allen screws for the individual supports were touching the bridge itself.

This particular guitar has a Charvel (blleeeeearrrrrgh) bridge pickup and the "fat" swtich is broken. To me, this breaks the originality cherry and I'm thinking about replacing all three with Big Dippers or something like that.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 4:29 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 12, 2010 5:05 pm
Posts: 89
slmguy wrote:
NEVER use red lock-tite on anything you want to remove later with out a tourch. I had to remove some broken bolts the other day that were lock-tited in.


Do you think heat from a soldering iron would have loosened these bolts?


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 10:10 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 11, 2008 4:11 pm
Posts: 657
Location: Tenn.
I've done that with smaller machine screws and bolts. The ones I took out the other day were 10mm x 40 threads from machine parts. I'm a little gun shy about heating parts on a guitar, I know its done all the time with great results and is some times the only way.

BTW, the low torq loctite is 222 (purple) .

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 6:43 am 
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Joined: Mon May 31, 2010 5:32 am
Posts: 182
A little dab of nail polish makes a easy to remove thread locker.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 6:05 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 17, 2010 1:50 pm
Posts: 1569
Location: New Jersey
Weird thing - After reading Jack's initial post, I went and plugged in my X140 and guess what? The bridge was buzzing too. Never before. I took it off a few months ago and gave it a good going over with a brass cleaner but it eas fine after re-installation. My buzz turned out to be the D string sitting alittle funny on the saddle. It was abit of a heartstopper for a while though.


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