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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 9:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2010 2:08 pm
Posts: 312
Location: Nashville, TN
SLMguy,

I know of the place you speak about, it is Randolph and Rice. My father used to own an electronics parts supplier here in Nashville as well.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 9:00 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 19, 2003 4:58 am
Posts: 932
Location: Southern Indiana
Use Caig deoxit DN5 or D5 - you can buy it at radio shack now, but can buy it on line and it comes with a red straw to direct the spray. It is pro contact cleaner with a little bit of lubricant that is power safe and long term safe. It is made specifically for electrical switches and pots. I use it on vintage amps and guitars all the time, and on powered equipment. I always found it to be finish safe too.

When I rescued my first X330 from the pawn shop, none of the pots would move at all - really. I shot caig deoxit in them in from the back in the slot near the three terminals and let it soak down. I shot a lot into each one, with the controls face down and the back of the pot face up. Let gravity do some work and work it into the pot shaft. I forcibly tried to move it back and forth. I repeated. Shoot, soak a few second, try to move the control. Eventually every one freed up, a little at a time - until completely free. They haven't frozen since. There is a cain fader lubricant that I have that is a safe lubricant. Following up with that sometimes makes things smoother. I have found the DN-5 or D5 cleaner works on every pot style except a fader, with requires that fader lubricant. I still have a can of that here too and occasionally use that. I have gone through many cans of the D5 cleaner though. It is relatively expensive, but the average guy would almost never go through a can. I do, because I repair amps and they have LOTS of POTS. Caig makes high quality products for this market. It is what the pros use. It is a red, black and white can, comes in a 5 oz size, and in a tiny portable can (they also have many variations including bottles that are similar to super glue bottles that apply without aerosol and are usually more concentrated versions - those usually are not required). Use the standard spray stuff. Buy a 5 oz can and you will be good for a while. Don't use WD 40. I want a cleaner with a lubricant designed for electronics. This is it and have been using it for years with excellent results.

It works. I have amps do this too. Pots CAN go bad, but unless they are very cheap or otherwise damaged they seldom do. I have found the pots in electras to be OK. Probably too late for you now, but the next guy might find this useful. Good luck.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 4:54 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2010 2:08 pm
Posts: 312
Location: Nashville, TN
Thorny,

I haven't changed the pots or even touched them yet. I've been working on the scratches on the neck first. I appreciate your input along with everyone else's. This has all been helpful for both me and anyone else looking at the thread.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 11:16 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 19, 2003 4:58 am
Posts: 932
Location: Southern Indiana
If you ever need anything, I am only about 2.5 hours away from Nashville near Evansville, IN. If happened to get lost up here sometime, please stop by.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2011 7:55 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2009 1:50 pm
Posts: 431
Location: Saint Louis
I'll second Thorny's suggestion on the Caig products, and I can confirm the use of them in pro situations. It's what I use for recording studio equipment. I don't use the spray can type, but rather the "needle dropper" style bottle. Less overspray, less waste.


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