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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 11:07 am 
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Location: Tifton, Ga USA
I am currently working to restore a X110N(natural ash finish) to it's original configuration. Body has some artwork on ot but is in overall great shape and even at my low skill level I think I can manage the body. The trem is original but has been excessivly overcoated with Black enamal paint to make it an all black trem. This to I think I can manage with some cleaners and elbow grease. The neck however is a phoenix neck but it is the standard black neck with rosewood fretboard. Will need a good cleaning, fret buff etc but a nce neck still. My question is which neck did the X110 Natural have installed in stock configuration? I believe it had the Phoenix maple neck with natural maple finish but can find no photos or reference to this part of the guitar. I also was fortunate enough that it still had the MMK 45 pickup and the wires are in need or repair but are all there as well as the coil ta switch. The Phoenix logo was also blacked out on the headstock but with time and cleaner has cleaned up nicely as did the nice chrome trem system. Does anyone here have any ideas on this on and also does anyone here have a spare or extra natural maple phoenix neck? Thanks

Here is a link to pics as she arrived and what I have thus far done to restore her back to her original beauty.
http://s975.photobucket.com/albums/ae23 ... storation/

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 11:53 am 
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Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
When you had the neck off, did you see any funny business with the mounting holes? The black necks don't show up until about 1983, which corresponds to the headstock logo too. It is conceivable that the neck is from a different guitar, or, that the white or black finish was removed from the body... does it look like a natural refin? I can't recall whether I've seen a x110 (Phoenix) with a rosewood fingerboard... Electra never stood still though, and models often sported different looks over the course of production. Big difference in early/late Phoenix is that the nut on the early ones was bigger and at the end of the fingerboard like a Gibson, later ones had the nut in a slot like a fender. Also the truss rod adjustment was at the body on the early ones, truss rod cover on later models. Because of this, I think its problematic to mix-and-match bodies/necks from different vintages, probably mounting and intonation issues.

Looks interesting, are you gonna keep the Rainbow Decal? Looks like a do-able project, Mike.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 2:10 pm 
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and the newer necks were a tad narrower at the heel. so a newer neck will fit on an early body, but not the other way around...
if that neck fits snug in the pocket, then I'd be inclined to say it's a refin... especially after looking at the photos. looks like it was stripped in a flow tank. the control cavity should have had a coating inside it...

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 3:37 pm 
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Neck fits Ok but has a small shim to make it fit correctly. Wood is smooth and art was drawn on body with ball point and permanent color marker. I have already sanded off the artwork to get it back to original natural finish. There was a slight green layer inside the control cavity but it cleaned off no problem so may have been stripped but if it was they did a super job. I am new at this so I ahve no clues. the black paint is now all off the trem system and it works smooth now. Put in back together and set it up today and it plays nice.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 3:53 pm 
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It appears to have the later, more rounded body style. That would, in my opinion, match the newer neck to it. Never seen one of those rounded bodies with a maple fretboard.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 5:44 am 
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If they stripped the control cavity of the shielding paint, you are going to want to re-shield it.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:54 am 
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I agree as the control cavity is down to the natural wood and has no shielding. Played it more today and it has no major feedback or other problems but I do want to shield it. What works best for this. I have seen the thin foil shielding as well as the black paint but not certain what either are and where to find them. Thanks

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 10:00 am 
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Stew-Mac for foil or paint,conductive paint is easier-it's all expensive though.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 3:16 pm 
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Contact cement and heavy duty aluminum foil work well. It is a bit more work than the shielding foil they sell but a heck of a lot cheaper.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 3:22 pm 
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My thanks to all for the great information. The knowledge found here in the forums is a priceless asset.

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